Meinong & Maolin Self-Drive: Hakka Town and Purple Crow Butterfly Season (Nov–Mar) from Kaohsiung

Meinong & Maolin Self-Drive: Hakka Town and Purple Crow Butterfly Season (Nov–Mar) from Kaohsiung

Kaohsiung's hill country has two places that are at their best in winter. Meinong (美濃) is a Hakka farming town known for oil-paper umbrellas, its old East Gate and a lakeside that fills with migratory birds. Half an hour further into the mountains, Maolin (茂林) is where hundreds of thousands of purple crow butterflies gather in sheltered valleys every winter — the famous Purple Butterfly Valley (紫蝶幽谷). Just north lies Liugui (六龜), with the jagged conglomerate peaks of Shibaluohan Mountain and the Baolai and Bulao hot springs.

The three areas are only 15–35 minutes apart by car, but getting there by public transport means changing at Qishan and waiting for an infrequent mountain bus. That makes this one of the best-value self-drive day trips in southern Taiwan. This guide covers Meinong, Maolin and Liugui only: drive times from HSR Zuoying (Kaohsiung) Station (Google Maps estimates), official opening hours and closing days, what is currently closed, butterfly-watching etiquette, and three day plans. For Kaohsiung city sights, see Kaohsiung Self-Drive: 5 Routes and Exploring Kaohsiung from Zuoying HSR.

A tiger butterfly on lantana (Unsplash, photographer's location: Kaohsiung City; for illustration only, not taken at Maolin)

Where to pick up your car: Zuoying HSR is the easiest

If you arrive by high-speed rail, pick up at HSR Zuoying (Kaohsiung) Station and take Freeway 10 straight towards Qishan and Meinong. Staying in central Kaohsiung? Kaohsiung Railway Station works too. Flying in? Use Kaohsiung Airport (KHH). Pickup works differently at each:

Drive times are Google Maps estimates (weekday 09:00 and weekend 08:00 departures); actual times depend on traffic. Pickup details: Zuoying HSR Car Rental Guide and Kaohsiung Car Rental: 3 Pickup Points.

Drive-time table: linking Meinong, Maolin and Liugui

One of the driving routes listed by the Maolin District Office makes a neat loop: Freeway 10 → Hwy 28 to Qishan → Meinong → Hwy 28A (Xinwei Bridge) → Dajin in Liugui → Hwy 27 → Maolin → County Road 132 to Wanshan and Duona. Another comes in from the Pingtung side: Freeway 1 → Hwy 22 to Gaoshu → Hwy 27 across Dajin Bridge into Maolin. Public transport is limited to Kaohsiung Bus H31 from Qishan Bus Station to Maolin and Duona, with few departures — driving is far easier, especially with kids or older relatives.

Meinong: seven stops in the Hakka town

Meinong's sights are clustered in and around the town centre, so once you've parked, several are within walking distance. Hours below come from the Kaohsiung City Government Tourism Bureau and official sites; check the latest notices before you go.

1. Meinong Hakka Culture Museum (美濃客家文物館) — about 35–65 min from Zuoying HSR

• Hours: Tuesday–Sunday 09:00–17:00 (tickets until 16:40); closed Mondays, Lunar New Year's Eve and Lunar New Year's Day.
• Why go: a good first stop to understand Meinong's Hakka life, tobacco farming and paper-umbrella craft.
• Parking: the museum has a car park.

2. Yong'an Old Street and the East Gate — about 5 min from the museum

• Yong'an Old Street (永安老街): open all day; about 2 km from the Mi-nong village paper-burning pavilion to the East Gate, lined with old courtyard homes and Hakka snack shops.
• East Gate (東門樓): at the head of Yong'an Road. First built in 1755 and rebuilt in 1937, it carries the inscription "大啟文明" and is Meinong's best-known landmark.

3. Meinong Lake (美濃湖)

• Hours: open all day; about 21 hectares, with a lakeside footpath and cycle path.
• Winter bonus: migratory birds visit from October to March, overlapping with butterfly season. Around Lunar New Year the fields near the lake also host the Meinong flower fields — dates change each year with the holiday, so check the district office's announcement.

4. Yuan Shiang Yuan Paper Umbrella Cultural Village (原鄉緣紙傘文化村)

• Hours: weekdays 09:00–17:30, weekends 08:30–18:00.
• Why go: see Meinong's hand-painted oil-paper umbrellas being made; mostly indoors, so it works on a rainy day. Car park on site.

5. Meinong Kiln (美濃窯)

• Hours: the Tourism Bureau lists weekdays 08:00–17:00 and weekends 09:00–17:00; confirm on site.
• Why go: a pottery studio and gallery — a quick stop if you like handicrafts.

6. Yellow Butterfly Valley (黃蝶翠谷) — about 12–14 min from the museum

• Hours: open all day, along County Road 109.
• Why go: 110 butterfly species have been recorded here, led by the lemon emigrant (淡黃蝶), and Meinong has long held a Yellow Butterfly Festival in the valley. It peaks in a different season from Maolin's purple crows, so butterfly fans can visit both.

A plain tiger butterfly (Unsplash, photographer's location: Kaohsiung; for illustration only — Yellow Butterfly Valley's star is the lemon emigrant)

7. Zhuzimen Power Plant (竹仔門電廠, national monument)

• A hydroelectric power plant listed as a national monument. You can view the buildings from outside; the Tourism Bureau says visits can be arranged on plant working days, so contact them first rather than turning up unannounced.

Meinong's signature dish is Hakka flat rice noodles (粄條); you'll find plenty of shops around Yong'an Old Street and Zhongshan Road. Closing days vary by shop.

Purple Butterfly Valley in Maolin: season, timing, etiquette and parking

Maolin is one of Taiwan's key overwintering sites for purple crow butterflies (Euploea species). According to the Maolin National Scenic Area Administration, there are more than ten butterfly valleys in the district. The recommended viewing spot is the Maolin Purple Butterfly Ecological Park (茂林紫蝶生態公園) — opposite No. 16, Neighbourhood 1, Maolin Village, open 24 hours, with the Zishalishali trail inside — plus the butterfly trails set up by the Maolin District Office.

A butterfly from the same milkweed-butterfly family (Unsplash, photographer's location: Kaohsiung; for illustration only — the valley's main species is the purple crow)

Butterfly etiquette (official guidelines)

• Don't catch or collect butterflies unless for approved teaching or research.
• Don't enter the overwintering valleys without permission — some are private land.
• Follow the on-site guides' instructions when taking photos; don't shake trees or throw anything to make butterflies fly.
• Slow down when driving through butterfly corridors — the butterflies often fly low across the road.

Maolin Visitor Center

No. 7-7, Maolin Lane; open daily 09:00–17:00, with an immersive film about Maolin's ecology. A handy stop for toilets and maps before heading to the park.

Maolin villages and Liugui: Longtou Mountain, Duona Bridge, Shibaluohan

Longtou Mountain and Shetou Mountain — around km 12 of County Road 132

• Longtou Mountain (龍頭山): open 24 hours; the "Little Great Wall" trail is about 500 m, around 1 hour return, and you can continue on foot for about half an hour to Duona High Suspension Bridge.
• Shetou Mountain (蛇頭山): open all day; a viewing platform overlooks a dramatic river meander, one of Maolin's best-known viewpoints.

Duona High Suspension Bridge (多納高吊橋) — about 14 min from the Visitor Center

• 232 m long and 103 m high, open 24 hours, maximum 100 people at a time, no cars or scooters. Park at the car park near the Wanshan end and walk onto the bridge.

Duona Slate House Village (多納石板屋)

• A Rukai village of traditional slate houses. The Administration asks visitors not to drive into the village — park outside and walk; don't peer into homes, ask permission before taking photos indoors, and don't take any slate.

Shibaluohan Mountain, Liugui (十八羅漢山) — about 14–18 min from the Visitor Center

• Around km 5 of Hwy 27A. The recreation area (information station) is open 08:00–17:00 and closed on Tuesdays; from the viewing area you can see the conglomerate peaks.
• The mountain is a nature reserve: entering the reserve requires an application to the forestry authority, and the old tunnels have been closed for years and can only be visited on a booked guided tour. Don't walk in on your own.

Baolai and Bulao hot springs

Continue north from Liugui along Hwy 27A and Hwy 20 to the Baolai and Bulao hot spring areas — a great way to end a winter butterfly day. Spring types, drive times and road notes are in the Taiwan Hot Spring Road Trip Map (Baolai is about 95–97 minutes from Zuoying HSR). Bulao opening hours vary by operator.

Three day plans (pick up and return at Zuoying HSR)

Plan A — Butterflies + Hakka town classic (avoid Mondays)

• 07:30 Pick up at Zuoying HSR → Maolin Purple Butterfly Ecological Park (about 55–80 min) to catch the 08:30–11:00 window.
• 11:00 Maolin Visitor Center for the film and a break → drive to Meinong (about 24–35 min) for Hakka noodles at lunch.
• Afternoon Meinong Hakka Culture Museum → Yong'an Old Street and the East Gate → a walk around Meinong Lake; add the paper umbrella village if there's time.
• Return Meinong → Zuoying HSR about 35–65 min; allow extra time on weekend evenings.

Plan B — Maolin in depth: butterflies, Longtou Mountain, Duona Bridge

• 07:30 Pick up at Zuoying HSR → Ecological Park for the butterflies.
• 11:00 Up County Road 132 → Shetou Mountain viewpoint → Longtou Mountain's Little Great Wall trail (about 1 hour return).
• Afternoon Duona High Suspension Bridge (park at the Wanshan end) → walk around Duona Slate House Village.
• Return Maolin → Zuoying HSR about 55–85 min at 17:00 on a Saturday; aim to come down the mountain road before dark.

Plan C — Meinong + Liugui + hot spring (avoid Mondays and Tuesdays)

• 09:00 Pick up at Zuoying HSR → Meinong Hakka Culture Museum (about 35–65 min) → Yellow Butterfly Valley (about 12–14 min).
• Early afternoon Meinong → Shibaluohan Mountain recreation area (about 26–35 min) for the conglomerate peaks.
• Late afternoon Soak at Baolai or Bulao, or head back to Zuoying HSR (about 55–90 min at 17:00 on a Saturday).
• Two-day version: do Plan C and stay overnight in Baolai or Liugui, then enter Maolin early the next morning for the butterflies and finish with the second half of Plan B.

Continuing south to Pingtung and Kenting? See the Kaohsiung, Kenting & Liuqiu 3-day itinerary. Want to return the car in another city? The rules are in 10 One-Way Rental Routes — one-way fees are shown in the online quote and differ by location.

Mountain driving tips: County Road 132, passing, parking and fuel

• County Road 132 to Wanshan and Duona: narrow with many bends. Slow down before corners, keep right, and pull over at a wider spot to let larger vehicles pass. Mobile signal can drop in the mountains, so download your map before you set off. Taiwan drives on the right — see Taiwan Driving Rules for Foreign Drivers.
• Low-flying butterflies: in season, drive slowly through Maolin and stop if a cloud of butterflies crosses the road.
• Parking: use the Ecological Park car park for the butterflies, the Wanshan-end car park for the bridge, and don't drive into Duona village. General tips: Parking in Taiwan.
• Fuel: filling stations are few in the mountains. When the tank is around half, fill up in Meinong, Qishan or Liugui at a staffed station — ask the attendant to fill the car and pay with the Goodcars fuel card (self-service pumps may not accept it).
• After typhoons or heavy rain: mountain roads may be closed at short notice; check the Maolin Scenic Area's latest news before you go. If you break down or have an accident, contact your pickup store first (the number is in your booking confirmation).
• Which car: for 2–4 people, a 5-seater (the website lists New Vios, New Yaris, Yaris Cross and New Colt Plus); for families with grandparents, a 7–9-seater (Wish, M7 Turbo ECO Hyper, Staria, Starex, Touran). Actual availability at each location is shown on the booking page.

What it costs: rental + mileage fee + fuel card

• Rental: depends on model, dates and pickup location. Economy cars start from NT$1,199 on weekdays and NT$1,399 on weekends; actual prices vary by location and date, so check the online quote. The more days you rent, the lower the daily average.
• Mileage fee: charged on the actual distance driven, with no distance limit. Zuoying HSR to Meinong is about 46 km one way and to Maolin about 55–59 km, so a full day usually comes to around 120–160 km depending on your route.
• Fuel card: every car comes with a dedicated fuel card and fuel is included in the mileage fee, so you don't pay for fuel and there's no need to top up before returning. If you forget the card and pay yourself, keep the receipt and it will be deducted from the mileage fee.
• ETC tolls: every car has an ETC tag; freeway tolls (such as Freeway 10) are settled when you return the car, and staff can give you a breakdown on request.
• GO Worry-Free Protection Plan: if it's your first time on Taiwanese mountain roads, you can add the plan when booking to reduce the amount you'd be responsible for if the car is damaged; see the website for details.

How mileage is calculated: Mileage Fee and the Mileage Charges Guide.

FAQ

Q1. Can I drive in Taiwan on my own licence?

If your country has a reciprocal agreement with Taiwan, bring a valid International Driving Permit (IDP) together with your original home licence and passport; you can drive for up to 30 days after entry, and beyond 30 days you need a visa endorsement for your IDP from a motor vehicle office. Japanese visitors instead need a Japanese licence plus an official Chinese translation (a Japan-issued IDP isn't accepted in Taiwan). Holders of a valid Hong Kong or Macau licence can rent with Goodcars; for Hong Kong visitors an IDP is recommended. Details: Taiwan IDP Guide.

Q2. When is the best time to see the purple crow butterflies?

The official season is November to March, with the best numbers from December to February. Go between 08:30 and 11:00; on cloudy or rainy days the butterflies hardly fly, and the first sunny day after rain is ideal.

Q3. Are Lover's Valley and the Lomus trail open?

Not at the moment. Lover's Valley suspension bridge is closed and its hot spring suspended, and the Lomus trail (Maolin Valley) is closed after typhoon damage. Check the Maolin National Scenic Area's notices for reopening; in the meantime, visit Longtou Mountain, Shetou Mountain, Duona High Suspension Bridge and Duona Slate House Village.

Q4. Which days are Meinong Hakka Culture Museum and Shibaluohan Mountain closed?

The museum closes on Mondays, Lunar New Year's Eve and Lunar New Year's Day; the Shibaluohan Mountain recreation area closes on Tuesdays. To see both, avoid Mondays and Tuesdays.

Q5. How far ahead should I book, and how do I pay?

Online bookings need to be completed 12–24 hours before pickup depending on the location; for last-minute rentals, call the store (07-801-1122) or message us on WhatsApp. International visitors need a credit card in the name of the person booking. Weekends in butterfly season are busy, so book early.

Q6. Do I have to pay for fuel or top up the tank?

No. Goodcars cars come with a dedicated fuel card and fuel is included in the mileage fee, so there's nothing to top up when you bring the car back.

Q7. Can I get there without a car?

Kaohsiung Bus H31 runs from Qishan Bus Station to the Maolin Visitor Center, Longtou Mountain and Duona, but departures are few and you first need to reach Qishan. With a car you can be at the butterfly park in the morning window and still see Meinong the same afternoon.